Venice:
Associazione Guide Turistiche Venezia
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Venice
offers a wealth of possibilities. These six 'classical' walking
tours cover most of the city. All the itineraries are of about two
hours each and do not include the visits inside churches, museums
etc. To visit the museums or churches you need to book for extra
time or curtail part of the walking tour. Ask Guidetovenice for
the fee. Remember that meeting in hotels outside the Saint Mark/Rialto
area incur an extra charge of 20 Euros . Please note that the
cost of entry to museums and any other incidental expenses are not
included in the fee for the tour.
1. RIALTO: MARKETS
and MERCHANTS. From Campo San Bartolomeo
(St Bartholemew's Square) we walk to the ancient houses of the Corte
del Milion. The Malibran Theatre stands were archaeologists
think was the house of Marco Polo.
Just around the corner in the small renaissance church of San
Giovanni Crisostomo we find some masterworks by Giovanni
Bellini and Sebastiano del Piombo, two of the most important
painters of the XVI century Venice. From here we move on to the
Campiello del Remer, a little-frequented
and secluded spot by the side of the Grand
Canal, where the ancient Palazzo Lion
still bears Venetian-Byzantine friezes and the rare medieval "altinelle"
brickwork characteristic of 12th and 13th century Venetian buildings.
After a quick look inside the Fontego dei
Tedeschi, we cross the Rialto Bridge
to visit the commercial heart of Venice: the Banco
Giro (which has given its name, the 'giro', to a particular
sort of cheque in Britain), the old church
of San Giacometto and the leaning facades of Palazzo
dei Camerlenghi. Al last we will mingle with the crowd of
Venetians shopping in the lively fruit and vegetable and fish market
of the Rialto. The colours of the fruit, the variety of the fish
from the Adriatic and the fragrance from a florist shop stuck amongst
the stalls make the visit something not to be missed. (Closed in
the afternoon.) From here we take the gondola
ferry (50 cents) back across the Grand Canal, enjoying, this
time from the water, the sight of what was, and still is, the very
heart of the city. The tour might end in the Campo
Santa Sofia. To extend this tour we might visit the magnificent
15th century Ca' D'Oro Gallery or perhaps
to walk on to Cannaregio (see the next tour).
2.
CANNAREGIO DISTRICT AND GHETTO. Cannaregio
occupies the north-western area of the city; along the peaceful
Canale di Sant'Alvise or 'della Sensa' one can get away from the
hustle and bustle of the overcrowded Saint Mark's area. The walk
can begin either from the railway station or from Rialto. From the
station we can visit the baroque church of Santa
Maria di Nazareth 'of the Discalced' (the barefooted), named
so because it belongs to the Carmelite Order. Passed daily by crowds
of commuters making for the station, the church is a triumph of
Venetian baroque architecture; stepping inside one has the impression
of entering a cool grotto decorated with friezes, frescos and pinnacles,
amongst which are sculptures and paintings by some of the great
Venetian masters of the 17th and 18th centuries. Across the Ponte
delle Guglie we pass into Cannaregio and stroll along the canal,
busy with the ordinary trades of the city, but in barges rather
than trucks. From there we enter the Ghetto
and the urban island of the Ghetto Novo, named for the ironworks
that once occupied it. Although there had been Jewish quarters all
over Europe for a long time, it is from here that the name was taken
that became synonymous with the oppression and segregation that
reached its climax in the last century. The Ghetto was established
as the Jewish quarter in 1516, and survived until the end of the
Republic of Venice in 1797. After centuries of peaceful coexistence,
in 1943 250 or so Venetians of the Jewish faith were deported and
murdered by the Nazi regime. Some remnant of the ancient community
still live here, and five synagogues can
be visited through the Jewish Museum tours. Going on with our walking
tour we head along the Fondamenta degli Ormesini, the Calle del
Forno and Calle Loredan to a veritable jewel of a church, that of
the Madonna dell'Orto (Madonna 'of
the Garden'). Dedicated from its foundation in the 14th century
to Saint Lawrence, a stocky little statue of the Virgin in the sacristy
gave its popular name to the church. This was the parish church
of the great painter Jacopo Tintoretto,
and here you can see some of his more daring (and huge) compositions
-- the 'Adoration of the Golden Calf'
and the 'Last Judgement'; each measure 47
x 19 feet (!). He wanted to compete with the Michelangelo's
Sistine Chapel paintings. Leaving the church we pass Palazzo
Mastelli, 'of the camel' for an attractive relief of a camel
high on its wall, and cross a bridge onto the Campo
dei Mori (Moors), so called by the Venetians for the four
12th century sculptures, on Roman pedestals,
of Arabic merchants. On the Campo is the house
of the painter Tintoretto. Continuing along the lonely and
romantic Fondamenta dell'Abbazia, with
a pause at the imposing Scuola Grande della
Misericordia, we finish the walk at the Chiesa
dei Gesuiti and the Fondamente Nuove where we can enjoy the
view towards the cemetery island of San Michele and, beyond it,
Murano.
3.
CROSSING THE CITY. On
this route, we cross a good part of the city. From the car park
(or the railway station) we head for Campo San Giovanni e Paolo.
Along calli (alleyways) and campi (squares) we will come across
the two great gothic churches of the Frari
and San Giovanni e Paolo, treasuries
of Venetian history (both of them keep an outstanding series of
funerary monuments of Doges) and some of its greatest paintings.
During our walk we will pass the church of
San Nicolò dei Tolentini, the Scuola
di San Rocco, the Frari, the Campo San Polo, the Campiello dei Meloni,
the Riva del Vin, the Rialto Bridge, the Fontego dei Tedeschi, the
Corte del Milion (Marco Polo's home) and finally the great
conventual church of San Giovanni e Paolo with the adjoining Scuola
di San Marco whose facade is one of the most beautiful examples
of early Renaissance architecture in Venice. Last but not least
the imposing monument to Bartolomeo Colleoni
dated 1488. However, we could not part without setting foot
in an ancient and magical spot nearby - the fascinating but tucked-away
Corte Bottera, or "the mysterious
courtyard" as Hugo Pratt used to call it. (The walking tour
- 2 hours - does not include the interiors of the churches. Extra
time is needed to visit them).
4.
DORSODURO DISTRICT.
Leaving St Mark's Square by the gondola ferry
(50 cent, only in the morning), we cross the Grand
Canal from Vallaresso (by Harry's Bar) to reach the
Punta della Dogana (the old Custom-House Quay). Accompanied
only by the soft swish of the oars of the gondolieri, we are amidst
the most stunning views that Venice affords. One of the great landmarks
of Venice opens before us, the church of La
Salute, a masterpiece of Venetian baroque architecture by
Baldassarre Longhena, commanded by the Senate after the great plague
of 1630. After the bustle of St Mark's, Dorsoduro is an oasis of
quiet, but offers some of the most magnificent views. From our landing
stage we stroll towards the Accademia through narrow calli and tiny
campi. It is interesting to note the contrasting styles of the Palazzo
Dario, half gothic, half renaissance (famous in Venice for
its dark stories and its evil reputation), or the beautiful garden
of the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni (the
'unfinished palazzo'), from 1949 the home of Peggy
Guggenheim and from her death in 1979 a prestigious museum
of modern art. You might, however choose to make a full visit to
the Museum of the Accademia and to
its galleries of five centuries of the finest Venetian painting
from the 14th to the 18th century. There is so much to be seen,
from Bellini to Giorgione, from Tiziano to
Tintoretto. (the visit might take up to 2 hours in addition
to the walking tour). From the Accademia we take the Rio Terrà
Foscarini to the Zattere, from where
we can look over the wide waterway (perhaps to see some great liner
heading for the docks) and beyond to the wide waterfront of the
Giudecca. Finally we will visit the Chiesa
dei Gesuati, its Tiepolo's frescoes
and two dramatic canvasses by Gianbattista
Piazzetta. Our tour ends by the beautiful quayside of the
Zattere but for those more interested in the contemporary pursuit
of an ancient Venetian craft, we could visit the Squero
Tramontin, where Roberto, master boatbuilder of Venice, will
explain the mysteries of the construction
of a gondola.
5.
CASTELLO DISTRICT.
Perhaps between the six 'quarters' into which Venice is divided,
Castello is the largest and yet the least visited. The walk begins
from the mercantile area, and along the Osmarin waterfont we come
to the church of San Giorgio dei Greci,
the centre of the Greek community since 1497. Continuing in the
same direction we visit the Scuola di San
Giorgio degli Schiavoni with the extraordinary series of
paintings by Vittore Carpaccio, miraculous
survivors of five centuries in the care of the confraternity. A
few steps take us to the Campo della Bragora,
where, shadowed by a great tree, we find ourselves in a typical
Venetian square dominated by the powerful 14th century Palazzo
Gritti-Badoer. The Chiesa di San Giovanni
in Bragora, gothic (although on earlier foundations) is one
of the better preserved Venetian churches of the 1400s. A pleasant,
welcoming church, it shelters one of the masterpieces of the city,
'The Baptism of Christ' by Gianbattista Cima
da Conegliano. A short distance, past San
Martino, we come to the Campo dell'Arsenale. The Arsenale
of Venice, founded in 1104 and supplying ships and their
armament, was vital to the military power and commerce of the Republic.
Of great interest are the gates the (the so-called 'Gateway to the
World') with the four ancient lions.
The first on the left has on its flank a runic
inscription which was only identified in mid 19th century.
One theory of its origin suggests that it is graffiti signed by
Harald Hardrada, who later invaded Britain in 1066 to distract King
Harold from the danger of the imminent Norman invasion. A must for
English historians. We might end the tour here, but at the expense
of missing the Naval Museum and its many ship models of craft built
at the Arsenal since the 12th century. (Open only in the morning.
Closed on Sunday.)
6.
PALLADIO in VENICE.
Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the Venetian renaissance,
built the city's three most noteworthy churches of the 16th century:
S.Giorgio Maggiore (from the tower of which you can see the best
panorama of Venice to be found) and, on the nearby Giudecca island,
the Zitelle and the Redentore. From San Giorgio
Maggiore we cross to the Giudecca, and enjoy one of the most
pleasant walks in Venice, the stroll along the waterfront
to the Redentore, and the view back across the basin to Piazza
San Marco. Two hours tour.
****
The
most important museums and galleries of Venice: Doge's
Palace (see the link "Classical Venice" tour) Museo Correr
in Piazza San Marco (paintings, sculpture and Venetian history)
Museo del Settecento di Ca' Rezzonico (18th century art and culture)
Gallerie dell'Accademia (14th to 18th century paintings) Collezione
Franchetti at the Ca' d'Oro (sculptures, paintings) Pinacoteca Querini
Stampalia (paintings) Scuole Grandi di San Rocco (Tintoretto's masterpieces)
Scuola dei Dalmati o Schiavoni (Carpaccio masterworks) Museo del
Ghetto (Jewish life in Venice) Museo del Tessuto (Palazzo Mocenigo's
clothing museum) Storico Navale (naval history) Museo di Ca' Pesaro
(modern art) The Guggenheim Collection
GUIDETOVENICE
MARTINO RIZZI
Cell. +39 3289485671
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